Murano is famous around the world for its glass. Everything here is "created" rather than made, everything comes from a "studio" rather than a factory, every piece is made by a "craftsman" rather than a worker, and yet amazingly, the same pieces appear in every second shop along the waterfront. And also amazing is the fact that when you do see a person making glass in a "fornace", he turns out to be a young man in overalls working in a factory. The island is very beautiful, the buildings all different heights, architecture and facades. There is also a much greater feeling of space when compared to Venice, and of course we were blessed with another fine day where the sky was painted in the brightest of blue colours.
The glass products have to be seen to be believed, as do the prices - everything from massive chandeliers, vases of every shape, size and colour , souvenirs and jewellery. The choice of product is overwhelming, and every piece comes with a "Certificate of Authentication", which broadly states that what you are buying is in fact made in Murano, and not imported from China.
The real pleasure of Murano is its difference from Venice, both in aspect and crowd density. Not everyone makes the journey from the main island of Venice, although those who do seem to be mainly US citizens from one of the several cruise liners that are seen to be in port. It's a great place to visit, and an even better place to move on from with all your money in your pocket.
Burano is a much smaller island, a further 20 minutes away, and it seemed there were at least 600 people crammed into the hull of the ferry taking us across, with no room to move and no fresh air. The first thing that struck us as we caught a glimpse of life above the waterline was that the buildings were painted in the most vivid colours imaginable. Legend has it that the fishermen who originally inhabited Burano applied the paint to their dwellings so that they could use it as a landmark on the homeward journey from the sea in situations where the fog was heavy, but we also have heard that the fishermen needed to be able to identify their own homes when they were returning from one too many alcoholic beverages. Not sure of the real story, but the houses are certainly brightly painted!
Burano is now best known for its fine lace items of clothing, tablecloths and bedspreads, and again I was on the lookout for the collection of old Nonnas, dressed in black and all hunched over their lace frames churning out products for those of us who come to visit. Not one Nonna in sight, but a multitude of shops with very extensive displays of products "all made by me in my own home" says one sales lady before we agree to pay her price for a very attractive tablecloth and 12 matching napkins.
There is also a plethora of restaurants in Burano, and the local specialties are all seafood and pasta. I watched in fascination as two Japanese tourists were cajoled into ordering spaghetti with squid ink, and was even more fascinated watching the expressions on their faces as they munched into it. They clearly did not like it - but hey, when in Burano...!
No small Italian village or island would be complete without a magnificent church, and Burano is no exception where the Church of St Martino Vescovo dominates the main piazza, complete with a tower that leans at a greater angle that the more famous offering in Pisa.
The return trip to Venice on the ferry was no less crowded, but we had managed to chain ourselves to the forward gangplank so that we could get a reasonable supply of fresh air. Whilst there we counted the heads on board and came to the happy conclusion that it is no worse than the 5.15 pm train to Frankston. We all survived.
D2
Great to see Burano is still as colourful 20 years on. Thx as always for such beautiful photos and great writing.
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